If you have a whole army waiting to be painted and no time to shade each model by hand, dipping is exactly the method for you. Short answer: dipping is a speed technique where you basecoat a model in flat colours, then dunk it in (or brush on) an oil-based, dark varnish-wash like Army Painter Quickshade. In one move it adds shade, depth and a protective varnish, which makes it the classic way to get a horde tabletop-ready fast.
Because it shades, tones and protects in a single pass, dipping is a favourite of beginners and army painters alike. The idea is simple: you take a flatly painted model, coat it in dark solution, and the liquid pools heavily in recesses and thinly on raised areas, dropping shade everywhere on its own. As a result, a few minutes of work makes dozens of minis look convincing.
What is dipping and what is it for?
Dipping is one of the oldest classics in the speed-painting family, and its logic is refreshingly simple. First you basecoat the model in flat colours, with no shading in mind; then you submerge it in a dark, high-pigment varnish-wash. The solution flows over the whole surface, collects in recesses and thins on raised edges, giving the entire model graduated shade in one stroke.
The best-known product for this is Army Painter Quickshade. Because it is oil-based, it does more than shade; it also leaves a hard protective varnish layer, which means extra durability for models passed hand to hand on the tabletop. As Tangible Day puts it, using a good dip solution is "an easy way to shade models and add contrast" and "one of the best ways to paint many models quickly."
How does it work?
The secret to Quickshade is its consistency: because it is a very fluid, oil-based varnish-wash, surface tension spreads it everywhere on its own once applied. It builds up densely in deep recesses and stays thin on flat, raised surfaces. It is this "self-finding" behaviour that gives the whole model automatic depth, without you painting in shadows one by one.
Quickshade comes in three tones, and which one you pick depends entirely on your colour scheme:
- Soft Tone: The gentlest shade, ideal for light colour schemes. Best on skin, white, yellow and light grey.
- Strong Tone: The most common and most balanced tone. If you are unsure where to start, this is the safest choice.
- Dark Tone: The darkest, most intense shade. A perfect fit for dark armour, night schemes and dramatic contrast.
There is one point you should not skip: Quickshade dries glossy. So at the end you must always knock back that shine with a matt varnish; otherwise the model looks oily and fake.
How do you do it step by step?
The beauty of dipping is that it is very fast to apply; the catch is that it is slow to dry. Rush the drying and you ruin the whole job, so stick to the order:
- Basecoat: First, paint the model in flat colours. No shading needed; opaque, clean colours are enough. If you want a smoother base, you can lay an undercoat first with Priming & Undercoating.
- Apply Quickshade: Here you have two methods. (a) True dipping: hold the model with tweezers or a handle and submerge it fully. Per Army Painter's instructions, then "flick off the excess Quickshade with a whip-like motion." (b) Brushing on: brush the solution on generously, then take off the excess. This way is far more controlled and far less messy, which is why it is most modern hobbyists' choice.
- Remove the excess: If you dipped, flick it off; if you brushed, take it off with the brush. Leave no pooling anywhere, because collected liquid dries into dark glossy patches and lost detail.
- Long dry: Being oil-based, it takes 24-48 hours to cure fully. Be patient; a half-dry surface stays tacky and damages easily when touched.
- Matt varnish: Once the model is fully cured, hit it with matt varnish to kill the shine.
- (Optional) Highlight: Finally, add a light edge highlight on a few raised areas; it lifts the dipped look noticeably.
Dipping is really a heavy all-over wash and a varnish layer merged into a single stroke, so it works like an industrial cousin of Washing, Shading & Pin Wash.
Which paints and brushes?
The good news is that dipping needs no expensive kit. Because the job is a little messy, the real issue is not gear but preparation. Here is what you need:
- Dip solution: Army Painter Quickshade (Soft / Strong / Dark Tone) or a similar dip product.
- Matt varnish: Essential at the end to kill the gloss.
- Tweezers or a handle: To hold the model safely if you are truly dipping.
- A wide, cheap brush: For the brush-on method. Oil-based varnish wrecks brushes, so do not waste a good one on this.
- Gloves and newspaper: The job gets dirty, so protect your bench and hands ahead of time.
Method choice matters just as much as gear. Dipping is fast but messy and uncontrolled; brushing on gives the same result far more cleanly. That is exactly why most hobbyists now use the brush method.
The most common mistakes
Almost all dipping mistakes come down to two things: impatience and the wrong tone. Watch for these and you will avoid most problems from the start:
- Not removing the excess: This is the biggest one. Pooled solution dries into dark glossy patches and drowns the detail.
- Skipping matt varnish: Quickshade dries glossy; without varnish the model looks oily and plastic.
- Touching it early: Touching or varnishing before full cure causes tackiness and surface damage. Be patient and wait 24-48 hours.
- Wrong tone: Dark Tone on a light scheme darkens everything needlessly. Always match the tone to the scheme; if unsure, trust Strong Tone.
- Poor ventilation: Oil-based varnish is smelly, so do not work long in a closed room.
Pro tips
A few small habits visibly lift dipping's "cheap and fast" look:
- Brush instead of dip: Same liquid, far less mess and far more control.
- Start with Strong Tone: It is the all-rounder, and the safe pick when you are not sure of the scheme.
- Add a few edge highlights: A light edge highlight after dipping moves a model from "tabletop-ready" to "nice." You can find out how in our Edge Highlighting guide.
- Work in bulk: Dipping pairs perfectly with batch painting. Run the whole army together with the Batch Painting mindset.
- Know the alternatives: Modern Contrast and Speedpaint systems now rival dipping; to compare the two, read our Contrast & Speedpaint Systems guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is dipping good for beginners?
Yes, dipping is ideal for beginner to intermediate painters. That is because it needs no brush control; flat painting skill alone is enough. Since it shades and protects in one move, it is one of the easiest ways to get your first army tabletop-ready fast. The real challenge is not technique; it is learning to remove the excess and patiently wait for the cure.
Is brushing Quickshade on better than dipping?
Most modern hobbyists prefer brushing it on. You use the same solution but get far more control and less mess, and avoiding pooling becomes easier. True dipping is faster, but it is messy and wasteful. In short, dip when speed matters on big armies; brush when you want control over quality.
What happens if I skip matt varnish?
Remember, Quickshade dries glossy. Skip the matt varnish and the model looks oily, plastic and fake; on top of that, it shines unpleasantly under light. Matt varnish breaks that gloss and gives a natural finish. That is why this step is not optional; it is the inseparable final link of the dipping process and always goes on after full cure.
How long does Quickshade take to dry?
Being oil-based, full cure takes 24-48 hours. Even when the surface looks dry, it can stay tacky underneath. Touch it early and you leave fingerprints; varnish it early and you ruin the surface. So do not rush; wait at least a day, ideally two. Good ventilation also helps it cure.
Which Quickshade tone should I choose?
It depends entirely on your colour scheme. Soft Tone suits light colours (skin, white, yellow), Strong Tone fits most cases, and Dark Tone is ideal for dark, dramatic schemes. If unsure, start with Strong Tone; it is the most balanced and most useful tone. After all, Dark Tone on a light model needlessly darkens everything.
Can dipping reach competition quality?
Not on its own. Dipping gives tabletop-ready quality, not display quality. But as a foundation it is excellent: add a few edge highlights, some weathering or spot highlights and the result climbs fast. In fact, many painters dip the rank and file and finish heroes by hand to save time.
Does dip solution work over airbrushed paint?
Yes, oil-based Quickshade works fine over acrylic basecoats, whether you applied the paint by airbrush or brush. The only condition is that the acrylic layer underneath is fully cured. Because the oil-based solution does not chemically clash with acrylic, what matters is the dryness of the basecoat, not how it was applied.
The key takeaway
In short, dipping is the most practical speed technique for making a horde look convincing in one move: paint flat, dip in or brush on Quickshade, flick off the excess, wait for the cure, then matt varnish. Once you learn to remove the excess and pick the right tone, you can make dozens of minis tabletop-ready in a few hours.
Ready to build your own dipping kit? From Quickshade to matt varnish, browse our collection for all the paints, brushes & hobby supplies you need.