Short answer: Chipping is a weathering technique that fakes the spots where paint has worn or scraped away to reveal the metal, rust or primer beneath. You do it by dropping small, dark, irregular marks onto the points that take the most punishment, like armour edges, vehicle corners, weapons and steps. The result adds instant wear to any hard surface.
The nice part is that there is no single right way to do it. There are really three methods: sponge, hairspray/chipping fluid, and hand-painting with a brush. All three build the same illusion, that the top paint has flaked off and the layer below shows through. Believability then comes down to two things: putting the marks in the right place and keeping them small and irregular.
In short, chipping is one of the fastest tricks for making a tabletop vehicle or armoured figure look like it has actually fought. Done sparingly and in the right places it is gold; scatter it everywhere and you can easily wreck the model.
What is it and what is it for?
Let's start with the basics. Chipping mimics, on the miniature, the places where paint chips, scratches and peels in real life. On surfaces that rub and strike, the paint lifts and the metal, rust or primer beneath shows through. You recreate that look by adding small, dark marks to the surface.
So what is it for? It adds instant hardness and wear to any hard, mechanical surface: tanks, dreadnoughts, power armour, weapons, hatches and steps. A vehicle that looks fresh off the line suddenly reads as having spent years at the front once the chipping goes in.
One thing to keep in mind is that chipping never works alone; it is one link in a weathering chain. To see the whole picture first, start with the Weathering: An Overview guide, because chipping is the most visible step of the layered approach described there.
How does it work?
Understanding the logic makes the whole thing easier. In real life, chipping is the top paint layer physically lifting to expose the layer underneath. On a miniature you do not lift anything; instead you build the same illusion by adding small, irregular marks darker than the base colour, usually in a metal or rust tone.
Believability here hangs on two things. First comes placement logic: chipping should concentrate only on points that rub and strike, and barely appear on flat, untouched mid-surfaces. Second comes size and spread: the marks must be tiny, irregular and varied in size, because if they are all uniform and large the eye catches the fakery at once.
Once you want to push it further, you can use a two-layer chip. First you lay a lighter "fresh scratch" colour, then add a smaller, darker "deep chip" on top. That paired layer makes a flat spot read like a real pit and gives the surface a sense of depth.
Which methods can I use?
As mentioned earlier, chipping has three classic methods, and they all build the same illusion at different levels of control and speed. Which one you reach for depends on the job and the size of the model; most painters blend all three as the situation demands.
- Sponge chipping: The most common and easiest method. You pick up a little paint on a torn sponge and dab it onto the surface, and that motion naturally leaves small, irregular marks. For detail, see the Sponge Weathering guide.
- Hairspray / chipping fluid: This gives the most realistic and largest-scale chipping. It goes in order: base colour first, then hairspray or chipping medium, then the top colour; finally you lift the top colour in a controlled way with water and a brush. For the full workflow, the Hairspray Chipping guide is for you.
- Brush (manual): The most controlled method. You paint each chip one by one with a fine brush, which makes it ideal for display work that wants few but careful chips.
If you are just starting out, begin with the sponge, because it is fast, forgiving and naturally varied. As you build up practice, you can move to hairspray for large panels and realistic big flakes, and to the brush for fine detail.
How do you do it step by step?
Now for the actual application. The flow below is a quick hybrid of sponge and brush, and it is more than enough for most tabletop models. One rule matters above all: do not start until the base colour is fully dry, or the marks will spread and smear.
- Lay the base colour: The surface should be painted and fully dry. Chipping always goes over a finished coat.
- Pick a chip colour: A dark brown or grey for rusted metal, or a dark metallic as an alternative. It is usually safest to start with a mid-dark "edge/crack" colour first.
- Sponge or fine brush: Take very little paint and offload the excess onto paper, then drop tiny, irregular marks on rubbing edges and corners.
- Second layer (depth): Now add smaller, darker (or metallic) marks inside and beside the first chips to build depth.
- Bright metal (optional): Finally, put a tiny, light metallic dot on the few most-worn points; this reads as freshly exposed metal.
Once that is done, there is one extra touch: flowing a little rust into and around the chips multiplies the believability. To work that step on its own, see the Rust Effects guide, because once chipping and rust work together the metal really comes alive.
Which paints and brushes?
Here is the good news: chipping does not need expensive materials; the right colour trio and a few old brushes are enough. So focus on nailing the contrast and the texture rather than chasing a brand. Here is what you'll want.
- Chip colour: A dark brown or grey-brown tone (for example a Citadel Rhinox Hide type), and a dark reddish-brown for rusted metal. Vallejo and Army Painter dark browns work fine too.
- Dark metallic: A dark steel (Leadbelcher type) or silver for "fresh metal" dots; use it sparingly and selectively.
- Sponge: Blister foam or a makeup sponge; a torn edge gives the best texture.
- Brush: An old brush with a slightly splayed tip; chipping wears a tip fast, so do not spend your good kolinsky on it.
- For rust: Technical paints, weathering pigments or orange-brown washes, ideal for flowing under the chips.
One more note: the sponge gives the fastest spread but can look a bit messy on its own. After sponging, touching up the largest, least logical marks with a fine brush pulls the result up to display level in a minute.
The most common mistakes
With chipping, things usually go wrong in the same place: overdoing it. Almost every mistake comes from thinking "more is better," when chipping wins by being selective and concentrated. Here are the ones you'll run into most.
- Overdoing it: Covering the whole surface with chips is the biggest trap. Chipping must be selective: concentrate it on worn edges and corners and leave broad surfaces mostly clean.
- Uniform large blobs: If they are all the same size and shape, the eye catches the fakery instantly, so varied size and shape is essential.
- Illogical placement: Heavy chipping on flat, untouched mid-surfaces looks artificial; chipping belongs only on rubbing points.
- A chip colour too bright or too clean: A real chip is usually dark and rusty, so bright silver marks make the model look like a toy.
That is why, when in doubt, do less; adding a chip is far easier than removing too many. Put a few marks down first, check the model at arm's length, then add more only if it needs it.
Pro tips
A few small habits move chipping from "passable" to "convincing." All of them are simple, bench-proven moves.
- Concentrate chipping on edges and corners, and leave the middle of broad surfaces almost untouched. That is physically where wear happens anyway.
- A two-layer chip (a dark centre inside a lighter ring, or the reverse) is the most effective quick trick for depth.
- As a more advanced touch, add a tiny light highlight to the lower edge of a chip and a shadow to the upper edge; this makes a flat spot read like a real pit.
- Always use reference: look at real worn metal edges and ask yourself where, what size and what colour the chips actually appear.
Hold onto this rule of thumb: chipping is an illusion, not a wound. The goal is not to injure the surface but to mimic how light falls into a real pit. A chip that is small, sparse and well placed always beats one that is heavy and scattered.
Finally, chipping is usually part of a larger battle-damage story. Combined with bullet marks, dents and gouges it tells a full tale; to see that whole, take a look at the Battle Damage guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
What exactly is paint chipping on a miniature?
Chipping is a weathering technique that mimics where paint has flaked, scratched or peeled away to reveal the metal or primer underneath. On a miniature you do not physically remove paint; instead you build the illusion of wear with small, dark, irregular marks. It instantly makes hard, mechanical surfaces look used.
Which chipping method should I start with?
If you are new, I'd start with sponge chipping. Dabbing a tiny bit of paint on with a torn sponge naturally gives small, irregular marks and is very forgiving. As your control grows you can move to a fine brush, and to the hairspray method for large, realistic flaking.
What colour should I make my chips?
In most cases a dark brown or grey-brown is the safest choice, because it reads as rusted or shadowed metal. Bright silver is used only on a few of the most-worn points. It is best to avoid bright metal early on, since a dark chip almost always looks more realistic.
Should I chip the whole model?
No, that is the most common mistake. Chipping must be selective, concentrated only on rubbing edges, corners, steps and weapon surfaces. Flat, untouched mid-surfaces should stay mostly clean. Chipping that is sparse and well placed is always more convincing than chipping spread everywhere.
Can I combine chipping with washes or rust?
Absolutely, and it is recommended. Flowing a little rust into and around the chips makes the metal look far more realistic. A dark wash similarly softens the chips and settles them in. Chipping gives its best result as part of a chain of weathering layers, not alone.
What is a two-layer chip?
A two-layer chip means laying a lighter "fresh scratch" colour first, then adding a smaller, darker "deep chip" on top. That paired layer makes a flat spot read like a real pit. It is the most effective quick trick for depth, and especially clear on vehicle panels.
Can I use my good brush for chipping?
I wouldn't. Chipping, and sponge dabbing in particular, wears a brush tip quickly. Reserve an old brush with a slightly splayed tip for this job, and save your good kolinsky for fine detail and layering. Matching the right brush to the task extends the life of your materials.
Key takeaway: Chipping fakes worn paint with small, dark, irregular marks that reveal what is underneath. You do it with a sponge, hairspray or by hand; the secret is placement logic and a sparing, well-placed touch. Concentrate it on edges, deepen it with two layers, finish it with rust.
When you want to round out your chip colour, sponge and the brushes you set aside for this job, browse our paints, brushes & hobby supplies and pick what fits your own bench. After all, the right materials are half the technique.